It’s hard not to have favourites, especially when it's your first. We start this story far, far away from the over-skied Summit County in southwest Colorado.

With a summit elevation of 3,299 meters, Purgatory Mountain Resort stands tall, rugged, and remote. Boasting 618 meters of vertical drop and a sprawling 617 hectares of skiable terrain, this off-the-radar gem offers something for everyone, from steep chutes and tight tree runs to wide-open groomers. Despite its devilish name, Purgatory's Hollywood-esque peaks are much closer to heaven than hell, providing a stunning natural backdrop unlike any other.

Steeped in the legends of outlaws and pioneers who conquered the Wild West, Purgatory embodies the spirit of adventure that once captivated the region. Not far from here, in nearby Telluride, the infamous Butch Cassidy and his sidekick, The Sundance Kid, robbed the San Miguel Valley Bank, leaving a trail of mystery and legend in their wake – a legacy that permeates the very essence of this rugged mountain resort.

On-mountain indulgence takes an unexpected turn at Dante's Lodge, where a nod to Lucifer is met with the unexpected luxury of a Bollinger Champagne welcome at 9:45 am. For just US$39, including exclusive early access to the mountain, we indulge in butter-soft pastries, double espressos, eggs benedict, and smartly-dressed service – a far cry from the campfire-style chow one might expect in these remote peaks.

Purgatory offers three main lodge options for on-mountain accommodation, each exuding the vibrancy and authenticity of a remote Southwest Colorado mountain village, despite their slightly tired interiors. In the main lodge, home to the Durango Mountain Club, we soak in the piping hot pool, taking in views of the main lift and the après shenanigans at the nearby Bear Bar and Purgy's Restaurant, before retiring to the private dining room for simple pub fare and a late-night Negroni.

Just a short drive from the charming town of Glenwood Springs, Sunlight Mountain Resort has an unpretentious vibe frozen in time. This crowd-free gem boasts an extra layer of stoke, spanning across 680 acres of pristine terrain and offering an exhilarating vertical rise of over 700 meters.

I was fortunate enough to experience the muffled thrum of Sunlight's antique Segundo lift, a relic from a bygone era that began its long life in nearby Aspen in 1954 before being relocated to Sunlight in 1973. As the Segundo prepares for its well-deserved retirement at the end of the 2025 winter season, it signals a step towards modernisation for this family-focused resort, yet its gentle, sloth-like pace has become a cherished part of Sunlight's allure.

After indulging in the exhilarating slopes, I make my way down to the Glenwood Springs Hot Springs, where I immerse myself in the soak culture, socialising with locals in the mineral-rich, piping-hot pools surrounded by towering mountain spruce and fir trees.

Nestled in the heart of Colorado's majestic Rocky Mountains, Vail is a ski resort ikon. As I make my first turns on its 5,289 acres of immaculately groomed runs, I can see why it has earned its reputation.

The Swiss-Bavarian architecture is certainly polarising. With 31 lifts, its seven legendary Back Bowls, and a pedestrian village rivalling Disneyland in scale, Vail epitomises true ski luxury. Every detail has been meticulously curated, from the sleek on-mountain lodges to the chic boutiques lining its heated streets.

The sheer vastness of Vail's mountain expanse is nothing short of breathtaking, with a mind-boggling 195 trails winding their way across the seven legendary peaks that make up the resort's formidable terrain.

They say Colorado always saves its best for last. Nestled deep within an awe-inspiring box canyon, the mountain town of Telluride (elevation 2,667 metres) is an alpine sanctuary carved into the very rock. Titanic peaks reaching 4,000 metres high loom overhead and a solitary road winds its way into this secluded enclave, where vibrant matchbox homes and weathered cowboy-era saloons seem to have sprouted from the rugged terrain.

On the mountain, an exhilarating playground unfurls, catering to skiers and riders of all abilities. From the white-knuckle thrill of 'Senior's' on Palmyra Peak to the meandering 7.4-kilometre journey of The Galloping Goose ensuring no visitor is confined to the bunny slopes, denying them the full splendour of the massive Colorado on-mountain experience.

Après indulgence reaches transcendent heights at Telluride's legendary "Snow Beach" at Gorrono Ranch. This historic saloon, its roots tracing back to a 19th-century Basque sheep herder's farm, now beckons with festoon lights, live music, steaming chilli bowls, and frosty craft beers – all savoured against a backdrop of breathtaking mountain vistas.

Yet, for all its rugged grandeur, Telluride's true essence lies in its warmth and hospitality, an intangible quality that permeates every facet of this isolated, fiercely independent mountain town. From the friendly banter on the chairlifts to the exceptional service at fine-dining establishments like Bon Vivant, where French Prosecco and delectable shared plates are savoured with new friends.