The Peaked Guide to Telemark, Norway

In the south of Norway, not too far from Oslo, is Telemark. When winter arrives, this place turns into your typical wonderland – with a twist. Yeah, there are postcard views, interesting customs (read: saunas and ice bathing) and never-ending adventure. There’s even a style of skiing named after the location. Telemark skiing combines different elements of alpine and Nordic skiing that uses the rear foot to keep balance while using the front foot to carve a turn. You’re on downhill skis with toe-only bindings. Maybe get someone to show you when you get there.

Otherwise, it’s got everything else you might want: local food, cabin hideaways and popular resorts. Of course, there are plenty of cross-country tracks since it is the country’s favourite pastime. But there’s also kite skiing, sled rides, snowmobiling, fat biking and ice climbing.

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Where to Stay in Telemark

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Get the genuine experience at Gaustablikk Mountain Lodge, which has traditional cabins as well as hotel rooms and apartments. At Haukeliseter Mountain Lodge, there’s a range of cosy, timber-lined resort rooms, including family-friendly ones and others with bunks in an old stable and coach house that are cool for groups. Looking for something different? Å Auge is a treehouse in the forest, surrounded by snow-covered pines. It feels completely isolated, even though it’s close to resorts, and is completely off-grid.

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Where to Eat

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When it’s not covered in snow, Telemark is home to orchards, crops and other farms. Savour regional goat cheese, flatbread pizzas and sweet pastries at Lega Cheese and Bakery in Rauland. After a big day skiing, you’ll appreciate the hearty local dishes – reindeer stew and potato flatbread with smoked trout – at the restaurant at Haukeliseter Mountain Lodge. If you plan your travels around food, check out Bjaaland Bygderestaurant. The owners source all the produce from local farmers and foragers and prepare everything from scratch for the six-course meal. It’s considered one of Norway’s best restaurants, but is only open every second Friday and Saturday night.

What to Do in Telemark

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There are countless outdoor activities available in the mountains of Telemark. With slopes for every skill level, Gausta Ski Resort is fun for everyone and one of the first resorts in the region to get snow each year. Take the funicular up Gaustatoppen for the full panoramic experience. If cross-country skiing is more your style, there are 460km of trails across the region, and Rauland has 150km of them. There are even some illuminated trails for after-dark adventures. When you’re ready to dump the skis, try your hand at curling in Skien Leisure Park or join a husky tour through the Rauland landscape.

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