In the picturesque Tohoku area of Japan is an epic ski destination with a difference: it has snow monsters. Mount Zao’s creatures aren’t dangerous though (unless you miss a turn on the slopes). They’re created when icy Siberian winds freeze drops of water onto trees to create these incredible natural sculptures that visitors from all over the world. Zao is more than its slopes, though. Zao Onsen is a unique place for winter adventure and relaxation, offering everything from steaming hot springs to regional dining specialties. Here’s how to make the most of your time at Zao Onsen and on Mount Zao.
The snow monsters are the reason Zao Onsen is so well known, and you’ll ski through and past them on the upper slopes of Mount Zao Ski Resort. The news is good there, too. The resort's fluffy, dry snow is ideal for both novices and specialists, with courses and slopes to suit all ability levels. Even beginners can enjoy the breathtaking vistas full of monsters when they head up to the Chuo Slope. This popular area is the usually the first and last slope to be open in the resort, and has a central set of seven trails that are great forgetting your ski legs.
The mineral-rich hot springs of Zao Onsen are the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes. There are various public baths, foot baths, spas and open-air bathing complexes throughout the town. Also known as the “springs of beauty”, the sulfuric waters are ideal for sore muscles and soothing skin conditions.
Zao Onsen has a variety of dining options, including syokudo (a casual restaurant or cafeteria), ramen spots and sushi bars. There are soba restaurants too, which isn’t surprising since buckwheat is grown in the region. Try them at Yunohana Chaya. Another specialty is jingisukan, lamb cooked on a metal skillet at the table. Try it at Restaurant Robata. For something different, head to Zao Brewery for craft beers – the Snow Monster is a must-try, as is the cherry beer, made using local fruit – and pizza.
There is a modest après-ski culture in Zao Onsen. There are often “snow bar” pop-ups. Otherwise try izakayas like Pub Seiwa for a local vibe, sake and craft beer with small meals. The town's little taverns are the ideal place to share tales about the slopes. Bar Chamonix at the base of the Zao Sky Cable is a quaint spot perfect for hot sake and iga-mochi (sticky rice cakes).
There are ski lodges with contemporary amenities and ryokan inns, where you will sleep on tatami mats and take use of onsite hot springs. Oohira Hotel is a walk from the slopes (there’s also a shuttle) and has both Japanese and Western-style rooms and onsite hot springs. Hotel Zao Shiki has updated rooms with a Japanese aesthetic, but beds off the floor, onsite rental equipment and hot springs, and seasonal kaiseki menu in the restaurant. If you’re looking for luxury Chikusenso Mt Zao Onsen Resort is the place to book. Its suites have private onsen facilities, each evening’s dinner is an artistic, unforgettable, multi-course affair, and the entire resort feels calm and quiet.